Fashion is a fickle thing, subjective and weakly amenable to any logic, but the ubiquitous statistics manage to decompose it into percentages and numbers.
Fashion (like tourism, by the way) is a fickle, subjective, and weakly logical thing, but the ubiquitous statistics manage to decompose it into percentages and numbers. For this purpose, the Lyst Index rating was invented, quarterly ranking fashion brands and their products by popularity.
To provide the most accurate results, the global search platform Lyst analyzes the behavior of 9 million online shoppers searching, viewing, and purchasing products from 12,000 designers and online stores worldwide. This includes search data on Lyst and Google, official sales figures, any brand mentions on social media, and the involvement of manufacturers in the fashion industry every 3 months. Difficult but effective: 20 undisputed fashion leaders for the 4th quarter of 2019 on Subtleties. Adepts of shopping tours or thoughtful shopping while traveling – read to the end.
- Loewe
Closes the top Loewe, founded in 1846 in Spain. It all started with a leather workshop in Madrid and turned into large-scale production of luxury clothing, accessories and perfumes.
Characteristic features are art design (fashion designers collaborate with artists and artisans), attention to detail, and versatility: Penelope Cruz and Charlotte Rampling wear Loewe with the same grace.
19. Dr. Martens
Dr. Martens is associated with heavy boots with lacing, thick soles, double seams, and yellow stitching. Once, skinheads worshiped them, goths, hippies and punks, football fans and hitchhikers, and today in the lineup, there are more than 3 thousand models outside of subcultures and other conventions.
Dr. Klaus Mertens designed the prototype immediately after World War II: over the years of service, he was tired of army shoes with hard soles, and he wanted to create a similar one, only much lighter and more comfortable.
18 Canada Goose
Canada Goose supplies the planet with warm clothes: even the frosts of the Arctic and Antarctic are not terrible in these down jackets. The company was founded in Canada in 1957 and produced not only jackets with goose and duck feathers but also vests, hats, and gloves – complete outfits against bad weather.
Canada Goose does charity work, helps nature reserves and zoos, and takes care of the conservation of rare species of animals and birds like the Canada goose.
At the end of last year, sales grew by 27.7%, a concept showroom opened in Toronto, and the 9th joint capsule with rapper Drake’s label OVO was released. The result is 14 positions in the ranking and a debut at the top of the best.
18 Canada Goose
Canada Goose supplies the planet with warm clothes: even the frosts of the Arctic and Antarctic are not terrible in these down jackets. The company was founded in Canada in 1957 and produced not only jackets with goose and duck feathers but also vests, hats, and gloves – complete outfits against bad weather.
Canada Goose does charity work, helps nature reserves and zoos, and takes care of the conservation of rare species of animals and birds like the Canada goose.
At the end of last year, sales grew by 27.7%, a concept showroom opened in Toronto, and the 9th joint capsule with rapper Drake’s label OVO was released. The result is 14 positions in the ranking and a debut at the top of the best.
- Yeezy
Yeezy sneakers are the dream of almost every advanced teenager, the brainchild of rapper Kanye West, part-time husband of Kim Kardashian. He has collaborated with fashion brands before: Bape, Louis Vuitton, Nike, where the Air Yeezy was born with a Velcro strap over the laces, and, finally, Adidas, which raised the main hype.
The most popular are Yeezy 350: lightweight, recognizable, with a special shock-absorbing sole. The V2 line is constantly updated with new combinations of colors and elements.
The production moves to America, the Adidas Yeezy 500 Stone is released, and Kimmy walked the Foam Runner – strange boots made of algae rubber-like material: white, bulky, dotted with holes. The release is expected in the spring of 2020. The preliminary cost is 75 USD. The prices on the page are for March 2021.
- Vetements
Vetements is the epitome of daring outrageousness, ugly fashion, and district romance of the 1990s. The brand is multinational: founded in France, based in Zurich, the authors are the brothers Demna and Guram Gvasalia from Georgia.
Designers boldly play with proportions, silhouettes, fabrics, and prints, and now dimensionless hoodies with provocative slogans, lighter heels, and ankle socks are no less prestigious than boring classics.
Towards the close of last year, Vetements created a platform to support emerging designers, a Star Wars capsule, a shirt covered in cartoon characters, and a cartoon case for smartphones. But this did not stop him from losing 5 positions in the ranking: perhaps due to Demna’s resignation.
- Bottega Veneta
Since 1966, Bottega Veneta has been relying on materials’ quality and solutions’ originality. In a workshop in Vicenza, Intrecciato was invented – weaving thin leather ribbons in the form of a diamond pattern, which has become the brand’s trademark.
Jacqueline Kennedy, crowned heads, and Hollywood heroines did not let go of bags, and Andy Warhol even made a short film about opening a New York boutique.
The victories of the end of 2019 – an increase in sales by 8%, “Brand of the Year” and 3 more awards at the Fashion Awards in London, the release of a mini version of The Pouch bag – a puffy clutch with voluminous folds (Russian fashionistas affectionately call it “pelmeshka”). Bottega Veneta was searched 32% more often, plus 2 positions in the Lyst Index.
- 17 Russian clothing brands that are in no way inferior to foreign ones ;
- Givenchy
Givenchy is an elegance far from stiffness: soft, feminine, and always up-to-date. Hubert de Givenchy dressed ladies with love and was friends with clients, especially Audrey Hepburn – it was on her that the legendary “little black dress” appeared in the movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”
Audrey also presented the brand’s debut fragrance, becoming the first famous actress in perfume advertising. Then there will be a lot of spirits, and almost all will acquire the status of cults.
Now at the helm is Claire Waight Keller, who is building relationships with US designers, bringing vintage denim back into fashion, dressing Timothée Chalamet for the premiere of The King, and Meghan Markle for a fabulous wedding to the prince.
- Nike
When we say Nike, we mean “sport,” stylish and reliable clothes and shoes for fitness and running, tennis and golf, football, skateboarding, and other activities. 112 factories in 12 countries are involved in the production, including Vietnam, China, and Indonesia.
Air cushions for shock absorption, wear-resistant soles, reinforced heels, sealed lacing – all details are thought out and repeatedly tested.
Last year, revenue was $ 10.3 billion, a new line of swimwear was launched, and a two-year partnership with Amazon ended: they want to make sales more personal. Bonus – strengthening positions in the ranking on a par with the representatives of the “heavy suite.”
11 Stone Island
Stone Island, with its headquarters in Bologna and a factory in the suburbs of Modena, is aimed at a practical, rational audience. Everyday pieces made from innovative materials are durable, versatile, simple in design, and recognizable thanks to the wind rose patches.
Stone Island is preferred by football fans, even in the movies – “Hooligans” with Elijah Wood and “Fans” with Danny Dyer.
The brand opened its first flagship in Toronto, auctioned limited-edition jersey t-shirts for the Chinatown Invitation, teamed up with high-tech textile dyeing gurus ECCO, and retained its Lyst Index spot.
10 Burberry
Burberry is one of the oldest British fashion brands, founded by Thomas Burberry in 1856. He also invented gabardine, a dense but breathable waterproof fabric, from which he began to sew raincoats that compete with traditional British macs.
Trench coats fell in love not only with soldiers, fishermen, and hunters but also with Hollywood dressers who dressed Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and Meryl Streep in Kramer vs. Kramer. And Lieutenant Colombo wore a gray cloak without taking it off.
The modern Burberry dresses customers from head to toe, partnering with reseller TheRealReal, opening a flagship store in Tokyo, and Riccardo Tisci’s help launching holiday collections in honor of unity and love.
9 Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent is the epitome of timeless French chic. The brand’s creator, Yves Saint Laurent, moved from Algiers to Paris at 17, fell under the wing of Christian Dior, and soon headed. The legendary House founded his own (having served in the Algerian army on conscription – already in the status of the head of Dior – and earning a nervous failure after 20 days).
Saint Lauren’s clothing is an ode to feminine beauty and seductiveness. The most famous hits are trapeze dresses with paintings by Mondrian, costumes for Catherine Deneuve in Daytime Beauty, a line in honor of the Russian ballet, and the hypnotic perfume Opium.
9th place in the ranking – for sales growth of 10.8%, Le Smoking advertising campaign shot by Juergen Teller and collaboration with Leica at the Paris Photo’2019 fair.
- Valentino
The history of Valentino began with the opening of an atelier in Rome in 1960. The creations of Valentino Garavani almost immediately captivated Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Diana Vreeland, and other sophisticated fashionistas, and the designer himself was dubbed the “sheikh of chic.”
The iconic color is temperamental red, but muted white, cream, sand, ecru, chalk, and beige from the unexpected “colorless” collection in 1968, when colorful psychedelics reigned on the catwalks and brought worldwide popularity.
At the end of 2019, Valentino staged a Daydream Couture show in Beijing with 45 royal dresses, launched a holiday campaign with Joan Collins, and created a limited handbag collection for Art Basel with Spanish artist Emilio Villalba.
- Prada
In 1913, Mario Prada opened a leather accessories shop in Milan’s Vittorio Emanuele Gallery, launching a marvelous family business. First, his brother Martino joined, then his daughter Luisa and granddaughter Miuccia, who is still the creative director of Prada – just the other day, Raf Simons joined her.
The heroes of the films “Romeo + Juliet,” “The Great Gatsby,” and “The Devil Wears Prada,” Madonna, Anne Hathaway, Cameron Diaz, and Paris Hilton – an impressive army of admirers.
Last year, Prada took out a bank loan of 50 million euros on unprecedented terms: the more ethical and environmental initiatives, the lower the interest rate. He also held a conference on sustainable development in New York, began collaborating with Adidas, and established the Prada Mode club for wealthy aesthetes.
- Fendi
Fendi is an example of Italian sophistication: discreet, versatile, but at the same time spectacular. In 1925, the young spouses Eduardo and Adele Fendi became interested in tailoring leather and fur products, opened boutiques in Rome and Venice, and involved five daughters in the business. Fur coats brought success to the brand – Karl Lagerfeld, who joined the family, brought them to perfection.
The Italians are not opposed to impressing the public: they built their palazzo in Rome, organized a fashion show on the Great Wall of China, and Amy Winehouse’s private concert in Paris for Claudia Schiffer, Mila Jovovich, and 400 other guests of honor.
5 Versace
Versace is also a family business: in 1978, it was created by the brothers Gianni and Santo Versace, and sister Donatella did not stand aside. This ball is ruled by sensuality: high slits, extreme minis, deep necklines, large prints, and bright colors – always smart, but never vulgar.
The brand’s emblem is the head of the Medusa Gorgon, a copy of the one adorned the shield of the sculpture “Athena Parthenos.” At Versace, it symbolizes fatal charms, a symbiosis of simplicity and beauty, “paralyzing” those around.
In the treasury of recent achievements – the Holiday Saga campaign (vintage novels starring Sarah Baker and Helena Christensen), the triumphant return of the green jungle dress – all on the same Jennifer Lopez, who has not changed a bit in 20 years, and the dress of the singer Lizzo for the cover of British Vogue.
4 Moncler
Moncler was founded in the middle of the last century by Rene Ramillon from Monestier de Clermont (and called it, shortening the city’s name). Still, the brand is considered Italian – in 2003, it was bought by Remo Ruffini. At first, under the brand, they produced sleeping bags, raincoats, and tents for the harsh French Alps, and now – elite clothing and accessories for life, sports, and outdoor activities.
Business card – super-light goose down jackets with a thickness of only 3 mm and a weight of 160 g, protecting even from severe cold.
Moncler has abandoned the division into seasons in favor of a monthly launch system: each collection is a separate chapter beyond the season and age of consumers, a personal look at tradition and modernity.
3 Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia is also involved in the Balenciaga brand, created in 1919 by Cristobal Balenciaga. The first boutiques were based in San Sebastian, Madrid, and Barcelona to the delight of the royal family and the aristocracy, but after the Spanish Civil War had to move to Paris.
Balenciaga was known as a revolutionary: he promoted the Empire style, smooth flowing lines as opposed to Dior’s “hourglass,” wide shoulders, heavy fabrics, complex embroideries, and other non-trivialities.
In 1972, the designer died, and the House was abandoned for as long as 15 years and then bought out by the French company Jacques Bogart SA.
2. Gucci
Before writing the Gucci epic, the son of a Florentine craftsman, Guccio Gucci, lived in London and worked as a porter and elevator operator at the Savoy Hotel. But, looking at the luxurious luggage of the guests, he decided to return home and start the production of leather goods: horse harnesses, clothes for jockeys, bags, and suitcases.
In the Second World War era, there was not enough money for selected leather, but for flax, hemp, and jute – quiet. It was the Bamboo bag in the shape of a saddle with a bamboo handle that made the brand famous, and away we go: women’s and men’s clothing, perfumes, branded striped braid, moccasins – and the won hearts of Grace Kelly, Ingrid Bergman, Liz Taylor, and Jackie Kennedy.
Gucci dictates the trend toward “carbon neutrality”: all greenhouse gas emissions are offset by protecting tropical forests in Peru, Indonesia, and the Kravan mountains in Cambodia and Thailand. The action has turned into a large-scale challenge, and the brand is opening Gucci Pin pop-up stores and filming ads with Harry Styles from One Direction – in general, it is moving forward stubbornly.
- Off White
Finally, the ranking leader is Off-White, a young streetwear brand from Milan. It was created by the American Virgil Abloh, an architect and friend of Kanye West, who dared to venture in 2012: he bought Ralph Lauren polo shirts in sales, printed his prints on them, and began to sell them online for 550 USD apiece.
The signature print – diagonal stripes, clothes, and shoes – are decidedly casual, ideal for active users of social networks who choose not brands but a lifestyle.
Off-White updated the logo on Instagram, announced the opening of a store in Miami, and sewed a lace wedding dress for Hailey Bieber, the chosen one Justin. Abloh is inspired by contemporary art and archival collections by Raf Simons and, paradoxically, predicts the imminent collapse of street fashion. Â
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